BUSCALAN Trip: Getting a Tattoo from APO WHANG OD

Who would have thought that I’d get a tattoo? And it’s not just an ordinary tattoo, it’s from Apo Whang Od of Buscalan, Kalinga. The legendary Apo Whang Od.

If you happen to know me, I’m just a regular dude who loves traveling. I appreciate the art of tattoos but I’ve never imagined it on my skin. I was just okay with everything. Okay with no tattoos. Chill.

But everything changed since the pandemic. A lot of things happened that made me realize to enjoy life and take risks more. Don’t expect to change your life if you do the same thing over and over again, right? We should at least try something new once in a while to make us feel alive.

I’m with Apo Whang Od. 🙂

So when I had the chance to travel to Buscalan in Kalinga to meet Apo Whang Od and probably get a tattoo, I didn’t think twice.

Buscalan, Kalinga Experience

Our call time was 3 PM at Mcdonald’s in Dasmarinas, Cavite. I was there early so I just had a quick merienda. After 2 years, I’m happy to be back traveling again. This time it will be with a group of travelers from Cavite. I’ve been living in Cavite for more than 7 years but I realized that I don’t have that much friends here. Poor Jon. LOL! So this is also an opportunity to meet some new friends in the area.

We departed at 4 PM and embarked on a long land travel going to the North. We did a stopover at a gas station at NLEX to have some dinner. Then continued our journey to the Cordillera region. It was early in the morning when we arrived at the jump-off area in Buscalan. All visitors are required to register.

That’s the village. 🙂

The registration area.

From the jump-off area, you could already see the Buscalan’s butbut tribe, the small village where Apo Whang Od lives. You’d also have an idea of the long hike that you need to endure going there. We just rested for a while, met our guide, and started the hike.

It was tough. I don’t want to sugarcoat anything, but the hike was challenging. That’s coming from an overweight dude with minimal physical exercise during the pandemic. If you’re someone like me, I suggest you that your time. Don’t feel pressured that your companions are a lot faster. If you need to rest, take some rest. There’s only one trail and everyone will arrive at the village. You’ll just be a little late. Haha! but it doesn’t matter. The hiking reminded me of my adventures in Batad Ifugao, going to Tappiyah Falls. Lots and lots of concrete stairs in the mountain.

READ THE BLOG POST: Tappiyah Falls in Batad, Ifugao: A Grueling But Worthy Trek

Kapagod ah. LOL

The Village

You don’t have any idea of my relief by the time we reached the village. Finally, the grueling hike was over. There’s a small souvenir shop to welcome you once you arrive. It was a perfect time to chill after the trek. I was one of the slow hikers to arrive there. The group was almost complete.

After a quick break, it was time to go to our Transient house. One important tip by the time you arrive in the village is to go straight to Apo Whang Od’s place and register. There are many travelers who want to be inked by Apo, so there’s a queue for that. There was already a long list of groups registered there, so it was already the next day when we got the tattoo. So register first before going to your transient house.

The view from our guest house.

Where to stay in Buscalan

We then go straight to our Transient House. This is definitely the best transient house in Buscalan with stunning views of the mountains. This is GL’s Crib located at the farthest part of the village next to the rice fields. It has 4 rooms on the second floor perfect for groups and families. Our room was good for 4 people so I shared it with other fellow travelers and new friends.

While our breakfast was being prepared, we just relaxed in the common area on the second floor. The view was just breathtaking. It was a perfect chill moment after the tiring hike.

Then the food was served. We all enjoyed our breakfast with this stunning view. I enjoyed my stay at this transient house. They have everything you need from food and other necessities. Please understand that the price of some food and snacks is a little bit higher because they still have to transport the products to the mountains. Imagine that.

The bathroom was clean, complete with a heater. The cool weather and the relaxing nature helped a lot for a sound sleep.

The Tattoos

One thing that every traveler in Buscalan must know, is that Apo Whang Od is now only tattooing her signature 3-dot design. I think because of her age (105 years old) and health, she’s not doing those elaborate designs anymore. This is also to accommodate the huge number of people lining up to have her tattoos.

So, if you want to get those bigger and well-designed traditional tattoos, there are other artists who can do that for you, mostly Apo’s granddaughters too, and one of them is Emily Oggay. While some of the group opted for other tattoo artists, the five of us – Pepe, Kelly, Richard, Jason, and me – chose Emily. We waited for a few hours and it was already late afternoon when we had our tattoos. We enjoyed talking and laughing with Emily. She’s a terrific tattoo artist with a smiley, positive personality.

That’s Emily. Thanks Jason for the photo!

Emily with Pepe and Kelly.

I chose the ‘sun’ design. I just think that after all that we’ve gone through the pandemic, the sun will shine through as a symbol of hope and a new beginning. Naks!

Apo Whang Od’s Tattoos

The time has come. After our breakfast the next day, we packed our bags and we were ready to go. But not without the tattoo from Apo Whang Od. Remember that we registered the previous day and expected to get the tattoo the next day. Well, not without waiting and queuing for hours. Again.

After lunchtime, It was finally our group’s turn. We were 12 and one by one, we were finally inked by Apo. It was a little painful, but honestly, it was tolerable. Probably because I was expecting it to be too painful just like what I’ve read and heard in the past.

Here’s the video.

It was surreal, that the person that you usually read about is actually tattooing you for real. I just couldn’t help but look at Apo Whang Od’s face while she was inking my arms. I liked seeing her smile. It was like it was love at first sight. LOL! You know what I mean. At her age, she’s such a beauty with a vibrant personality.

I’m with Apo Whang Od. 🙂

After getting the tattoo, it was time to go back. It was kinda’ sad to leave this charming village. This has got to be one of the most relaxing places that I’ve been to in the Philippines. The experience was even more special because of Apo, and also the new friends that I met during this travel.

Nice meeting you, guys! Thanks to Khalid of Yabang Outdoor for the photo,

As I walked on the trails and rice terraces going back, I couldn’t help but reflect on the entire experience. I got a tattoo. Unbelievable. It’s from Apo Whang Od.

Then, a sense of fulfillment. It’s true that doing something new will always make you feel alive. After being stuck at home during the pandemic, I’ve felt alive again. A lot of things happened in the past months, but I’m okay, and I know that everything will be alright.

How to get to Buscalan

If you’re going to commute from Metro Manila going to Buscalan, here are some options.

Via Bontoc
Coda Lines Terminal in Cubao has a daily 9 PM trip going to Bontoc, Mountain Province.
Once you arrive in Bontoc, there are jeepneys going to Buscalan jump-off area.

Via Baguio
If you happen to explore Baguio before going to Buscalan, you just have to ride a bus going to Bontoc, Mountain Province.
In Bontoc, there are jeepneys that will take you to the Buscalan village jump-off area.

Via Tabuk, Kalinga
Victory Liner in Cubao has a daily trip going to Tabuk, Kalinga. The travel time is about 11 to 12 hours.
Once you arrive in Tabuk, there are jeepneys that will take you to Tinglayan. Tell the driver to drop you off near the Buscalan village tourism site or jump-off area.

Of course, you can also join some group tours. In my case, I joined Yabang Outdoor. I had fun and met some new friends. Highly recommended!

Che, Pepe, Kelly, Patrick and ako. Thanks Jason sa picture.

Buscalan Itinerary

Here’s an example of a 2D1N itinerary for your next Buscalan Trip.

Day 0 – 1
4 PM – Depart Metro Manila
5 AM – (next day) Arrive at the jump-off area in Buscalan
6 AM – Start the trek
7 AM – Arrive at the village
8:30 AM – Register at Apo Whang Od’s place. Expect a long queue, expect to have the tattoo either within the day or next day.
8 AM – Check in to your guest house and breakfast
9 AM – Chill time. (Free time)
12 NN – Lunch
1 PM – Time to have some tattoos. Apo’s granddaughters can do the tattoo for you. As I mentioned in this post, Apo Whang Od is only tattooing the 3-dot design.
5 PM – Free time. Relax at the guesthouse
7 PM – Dinner
9 PM – Lights out

Day 2
7 AM – Breakfast
8 AM – Picture taking at the rice terraces. Free time
12 NN – Lunch Time
1 PM – Time for Apo Whang Od’s Tattoo. This depends on the queue. If there are fewer people, you can have the tattoo before lunch, so be flexible.
2 PM – Time to trek back to the jump-off area.
3 PM – Arrive at the jump-off area.
3:30 PM – Travel back home
11:30 PM – Back at home

Buscalan Travel Tips

1. For a more comfortable journey to Buscalan, there are many travel and tour operators that offer their service. In my case, I joined Yabang Outdoor which is based in Cavite. If you’re from Cavite, it’s much better to join this group. Rather than traveling to Manila before going to Buscalan.
2. If you’re not that “fit” you know, be prepared mentally for the hike. Take your time, don’t rush. Don’t be pressured by your travel buddies who hike way faster. Rest if you need to.
3. Once you arrive in Buscalan, go straight to Apo Whang Od’s place to register, to make sure you get your slots faster. In our case because of too many visitors, we were able to get the tattoo, the next day.
4. Pack light. Okay? You don’t need to bring your entire wardrobe for an overnight stay. Remember, you’re going to hike in the mountains.
5. Cell phone signal and data are so weak. Don’t expect that you’re going to have a real-time update with your followers and bashers. It can wait.
6. We’re in the mountains. No ATM. Bring enough cash. Don’t you dare buy something in the village with your credit card. LOL!
7. If you have a choice, go there on weekdays. It’s more relaxing and comfortable.
8. Of course, always practice LNT – Leave no trace.

Buscalan Travel Guide 2024

Visiting Buscalan in Kalinga offers a rich cultural experience, especially if you’re interested in the traditional tattoo art of Apo Whang-Od. Here’s a guide to help you plan your trip:

Travel and Accommodation

• Transportation: The journey to Buscalan can be adventurous. The route from Tabuk City to Tinglayan is known for its perilous roads, absent of guard rails and with deep ravines. It takes about 4 hours to travel from Tabuk City to Tinglayan on a top load jeep, an experience that mixes fear and amazement.
• Accommodation: Buscalan offers basic homestay accommodations owned by locals. The cost for an overnight stay is around PHP 500 per person. Expect basic facilities and immerse yourself in the local way of living.
• Food: You can either pack canned goods or dine in local eateries, known as karenderyas, where a meal costs about PHP 100-150, including a viand, unlimited rice, and brewed coffee.

Activities and Attractions

• Tattoo Experience: Getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od or her successors, Grace and Elyang, is a highlight. The price ranges from PHP 300 up to thousands of pesos, depending on the size and design. Apo Whang-Od’s signature three-dot tattoo costs PHP 300.
• Exploring the Village: Take time to explore the village, visit the rice terraces, check out local wall paintings, and try the local brewed coffee. Engage in social activities with the locals, as there is no mobile reception or internet in the village.
• Nearby Attractions: Visit the Lubo and Mangali Rice Terraces, Palang-ah Falls, and experience Chico River white water rafting. The Chico River offers opportunities for swimming, kayaking, and tubing.
• Cultural Immersion: Engage with the local community and learn about their traditions. Visitors are encouraged to dress modestly and respect local norms.

Reminders

• Cash: Bring enough cash as ATMs are located only in the city proper.
• Packing: Pack personal medicine, snacks, toiletries, and a reusable water bottle. Trail snacks and water are essential for the trek to the village.
• Respect Local Culture: Always respect the indigenous people and their culture. Photography is allowed but drone use is discouraged.
• Safety: Be cautious during the jeep rides and the hike to the village. The hike from the turning point to Buscalan Village takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Budget Planning

• Include various expenses: Consider costs for transportation, accommodation, meals, tourist fees, guides, souvenirs, and emergency funds.

Visiting Buscalan is more than just a tourist trip; it’s an opportunity to immerse yourself in the unique culture and traditions of the Kalinga people. Prepare well to fully enjoy and respect this enriching experience​​​​​​​​​​.

Update Logs
Travel: July 2022
Updated guide for 2024

More Blog posts in Cordillera

• Maligcong in Bontoc, Mountain Province DIY Trip
• Mt. Kupapey in Mountain Province
• Mt. Ulap in Benguet
• 15 Baguio Tourist Spots

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